An Art Guide to Paris Featuring Special Recs by Stéphanie D’heygere, Maud Charmoy, Christine Doublet
Three restaurants and a list of everything else going on this fall.
Today’s newsletter is a guide to what’s happening in Paris between now and the end of the year. It includes 70 carefully selected recommendations (only the things I want to see) from museum and gallery shows to design exhibitions, theatre, music, and film. I added one-off lectures and conversations around art and literature, and I didn’t forget the little ones, family time is at the very end.
I also asked three Parisians: Stéphanie D’heygere, Maud Charmoy, and Christine Doublet for their recommendations. They each responded with a restaurant.
Art
Museums and Galleries
Gerhard Richter (Fondation Louis Vuitton)
The Fondation will dedicate all of its galleries to Gerhard Richter, featuring 275 works by the artist stretching from 1962 to 2024. (Through March 2)
Gerhard Richter (David Zwirner)
This is the artist’s third show with David Zwirner since the announcement of his representation in 2023. On view will be new works on paper, as well as multiple important and distinct bodies of painted work by Richter from the 1990s to the 2010s, including photo paintings, Abstrakte Bilder, and reflective glass installations. (October 20 through December 20)
Polaraki by Araki Nobuyoshi (Musée Guimet)
Over the last 25 years, the collector Stéphane André amassed more than 1,000 polaroids taken by Araki Nobuyoshi. Earlier this year he donated the collection to Musée Guimet. This is the first time these works are shown. (Through January 12)
Childhood Illuminated by Jean-Baptiste Greuze (Petit Palais)
This 18th century French painter is fairly unknown today, but at the time he was an established artist in prestigious art collections. (Through January 25)
George Condo (Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris)
The most significant exhibition to date of George Condo’s work, it features 80 paintings and 110 drawings grouped together in a space devoted to graphic arts and some twenty sculptures. (Through February 8)
Minimal (Bourse de Commerce)
Includes works by Walter de Maria, Sol LeWitt, On Kawara, Dan Flavin, Agnes Martin, Richard Serra, Eva Hesse, Robert Irwin, Donald Judd, and many more. (Through January 9)
Jacques-Louis David (Louvre)
Considered the father of the French School, revered for breathing new life into painting, he produced imagery that still inhabits the collective imagination. (Through January 26)
Le Bruit du Monde by Luc Delahaye (Jeu de Paume)
Presenting the French photographer’s work between 2001 and 2025. (Through January 4)
Weaving Space by Lygia Pape (Bourse de Commerce)
Pape’s first solo exhibition in France brings together works fundamental to her practice, from her first abstract engravings to her majestic Livro Noite e Dia III alongside with a selection of her experimental films. (Through January 26)
Couples by Eric Fischl (Skarstedt Gallery)
Eric Fischl returns with a series on the historical theme of couples, as well as the feelings linked to relationships: fidelity, passion, and love, but also breakups, betrayal and solitude. (October 20 through December 6)
Jacques-Émile Ruhlmann (Galerie Guelfucci)
After spending years in Berlin, this 20th century design gallery opens in Paris with an exhibition dedicated to the Art Deco designer Jacques-Émile Ruhlmann. (Through November 25)
Design Miami Paris (Galerie Éric Philippe)
At the Hotel de Maisons (October 21 through October 26).
Kai Althoff (Tramps)
Gallerist Parinaz Mogadassi opens her new space in Paris with an exhibition dedicated to Kai Althoff. (Through December 7)
Paul Sietsema (Marian Goodman)
This exhibition brings together new works and older works, including two 16mm films. (Through December 20)
Mickalene Thomas (Galerie Nathalie Obadia)
This new exhibition unveils 11 previously unseen works drawn from series inspired by JET and Nus Exotiques-publications known for their portrayals of nudes. (October 19 through January 3)
Exposition Générale (Fondation Cartier Palais Royale)
600 works by more than 100 artists that have marked the Cartier Foundation’s programming from 1984 to today. All displayed in their new headquarters near Palais Royale. (October 25 through August 2026)
Philip Guston and Raymond Pettibon (Musée Picasso)
The two master draftsmen are brought together at the Picasso Museum in two parallel shows. (Through March 1)
Gluts by Robert Rauschenberg (Thaddaeus Ropac)
First exhibition in 15 years dedicated to Robert Rauschenberg’s sculptural Gluts series. (October 20 through November 22)
Ladies & Gentlemen by Daragh Soden (Centre Culturel Irlandais)
Winner of the Grand Prix du Jury Photo at the Hyères Festival in 2017, Daragh Soden came to international recognition with his series Young Dubliners. (November 14 to December 21)
Photographs from The Olbricht Collection (Sotheby’s)
Wolfgang Tillmans, William Eggleston, Cindy Sherman, to name a few. (November 12 through November 19)
100 Years of Art Deco (Musée des Arts Décoratifs)
The Musée des Arts Décoratifs celebrates the centenary of Art Deco with an exhibition of contemporary scenography. (October 22 through April 26)
Art Basel (Grand Palais)
Galleries specializing in modern and contemporary art. (October 24 through October 26)
Paris Photo (Grand Palais)
Leading galleries in the photography market. (November 13 through November 16)
Edward Weston and Tyler Mitchell (MEP Paris)
(Through January 1)
Restaurants
Three Recommendations
Stéphanie D’heygere, Designer and Founder of Dheygere
My boyfriend chef Mathieu Canet is doing a pop-up at Cravan in Saint-Germain-des-Prés on the 23rd of November. The place is very cosy with good cocktails and the food will be delicious.
Maud Charmoy, Founder of Amuse Bouche
So, I’m very excited about the opening (on the 20th of October) of the restaurant La Table by Christophe Vasseur, the owner of the cherished bakery in the 10th Du Pain et des Idées. It will be open all day from morning to evening, serving coffee and pastries for breakfast, pizzas at lunch, and oven-baked dishes for dinner. He’s serious in terms of quality and good taste so...
Christine Doublet, CEO at Le Fooding who also runs Skip the line
My current dining recommendation in Paris is À La Renaissance on rue de la Roquette. A well-known old neighborhood café, it was recently renovated and reopened by Carina Soto-Velasquez and Joshua Fontaine (the team behind other Parisian favorites like Candelaria and Le Mary Celeste). It was important to them to stay true to the cafe’s roots, with long opening hours open (every day of the week from 8 to midnight), a reasonable price point, a daily set lunch menu and traditional yet updated decor. They brought their personal touch though with excellent classic cocktails, a sharp wine list and perfectly executed bistrot food. They’ve managed to hit the sweet spot of being a spot that has maintained its local clientele while also attracting a hip new one and it’s lovely to see this mix-and-match crowd come together. A must visit! (Of note: they take reservations for meals, but there are always seats available at the bar or outside for a drink and a nibble!)
Events
Events Across Disciplines
October 21 | Sylvain Maestraggi talks about his new photography book Notes sur Les Rivières d’Athènes
Jeu de Paume
October 21 -
October 27 | Miu Miu presents a film and performance composition for 30 Blizzards by Helen Marten, developed in collaboration with musician Beatrice Dillon and director Fabio Cherstich.
Palais d’Iéna
October 24 | Conversation about the 90s with Sonia Boyce and Edward Enninful.
Petit Palais
October 28 | A conversation with Teri Wehn Damisch to coincide with the launch of the book Passages Transatlantiques Entre les Arts.
Jeu de Paume
October 28 | R.O. Kwon in conversation with Chloé Quenum about questions of ownership and origin in art.
The American Library in Paris
November 4 | John Singer Sargent and Henry James: Painting and Prose in a Gilded Age with Jean Strouse and Madeleine Schwartz.
The American Library in Paris
November 5 | An evening with Fitzcarraldo Editions and Ed Atkins.
Lafayette Antecipations
November 6 | A conversation with Ta-Nehisi Coates.
MK2 Bibliothéque
November 8 | Dialogue with Annie Ernaux on Laurent Cantet’s film Ressources Humaines.
La Cinémathèque
November 13 | Conversation and book signing with photographer Bharat Sikka.
Fondation Henri-Cartier Bresson
November 20 | Jonathan Coe on The Proof of My Innocence.
Shakespeare & Co.
November 27 | Ian Leslie discusses the biography John & Paul: A Love Story in Songs
Shakespeare & Co.
November 29 | Michaël Lucken talks about Araki’s flowers.
Musée Guimet
December 2 | Meeting between the philosopher Georges Didi-Huberman and historian Enzo Traverso about the image of politics and the politics of images.
Jeu de Paume
Music and Theatre
Concerts and Performances
September 11 -
January 15 | Les Fourberies de Scapin by Molière, Denis Podalydès.
Comédie Française Richelieu
September 24 -
November 4 | Aida by Giuseppe Verdi
Opéra Bastille
October 24 | Edging with Crystal Mess and Hey Bony
La Station - Gare des Mines
October 24 -
October 25 | Thomas Bangalter performs at the Centre Pompidou.
Centre Pompidou
October 26 | Ellen Arkbro: Nightsongs, Daysongs, after inviting Ellen Fullman, the Bourse de Commerce invites Swedish organ experimentalist Ellen Arkbro.
Bourse de Commerce
October 29 | Erykah Badu
Zenith
November 11 -
November 30 | La Walkyrie by Richard Wagner
Opéra Bastille
November 14 +
November 15 | Sleep by Max Richter, a night at the foundation (8-hour concert).
Fondation Louis Vuitton
November 26 -
December 06 | Mémoire de Fille a play based on Annie Ernaux’s novels.
Les Abbesses, Theatre de la Ville de Paris
December 12 +
December 13 | Creation by Bryce Dessner with Isabelle Huppert and Alice Sara Ott, based on excerpts from the anthology of letters between John Cage and Merce Cunningham entitled Love, Icebox.
Fondation Louis Vuitton
December 21 -
January 4 | Swan Lake by Tchaikovsky, ballet Preljocaj.
Théâtre des Champs-Élysées
Film
What to Watch and Where
October 17 -
October 26 | Louvre Film Festival, from David to Kubrick, the French empire and revolution in film at the auditorium du Louvre Michel Laclotte
October 8 -
November 29 | Orson Welles retrospective at the Cinémathèque Française.
October 9 -
November 30 | Harutyun Khachatryan Retrospective in collaboration with the Centre Pompidou at MK2 Bibliothéque.
October 20 -
November 2 | Hafsia Herzi cinematographer and actress at the Cinémathèque Française (I couldn’t recommend more going to see La Graine et le Mulet).
November 5 -
November 16 | Laurent Cantet retrospective at the Cinémathèque Française.
Family
Kids Too
Ongoing -
August 2027 | Transparency, an immersive experience for children that includes an ice palace, a mysterious forest, a cave of mineral treasures, a sunny sky or a sparkling ocean. (2 to 10 years old)
Grand Palais
Ongoing -
January 4 | 1,2,3 Couleurs experiment with colors and emotions, every Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday at 14h30. (3 to 5 years old)
Louvre
October 4 -
March 7 | Dancing Visit discover the works of Claude Monet with a choreographer every Saturday at 9h00. (3 to 5 years old, parents must be present)
Musée de L’Orangerie
October 5 -
February 1 | Au pays d’Orsay “when a museum is born in a train station, its works never stop traveling” a tour and workshop every Sunday at 10h00. (3 to 5 years old, parents must be present)
Musée de d’Orsay
October 18 -
March 3 | Storytelling Tour: In The Clouds, Betty the dreamer wakes up one day with her head in the clouds and her memories all mixed up! Accompanied by a Cultural Guide, set out on a captivating quest to help her regain her memory. The painting by her father, Gerhard Richter, shows the way! Every Saturday and Sunday, and daily during Holidays at 11:00. (2.5 to 5 years old)
Fondation Louis Vuitton
October 18 -
October 26 | Young Audience Film Festival around the Amazon theme: short and feature films by Miyazaki and beyond. (All ages)
Musée du Quai Branly
October 22 -
October 28 | My First Festival (all ages) a film festival for all ages.
Cinémathèque Française
October 25 | Trick-or-Treating (all ages) and Halloween Hop (ticketed event)
The American Library
November 8, 22 +
December 6 | Atelier de Création with the artist Camila Salame based on the works of Martin Parr. (3 to 6 years old, without parents)
Jeu de Paume
November 9 +
November 16 | Atelier Family Cinema on the footsteps of Mary Anning, a moment around independent French cinema for children with a 20 to 30-minute ateliers proposed before or after the film.
Jeu de Paume
November 22 +
November 23 | Family Weekend with several activities including dance, family yoga, meditation, creation, and a guided story visit around the museum. (All ages)
Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris
November 22 +
November 23 | Super Kids Party the annual party this time with Join Cheb Runner, composer of the symphony performed by Meriem Bennani’s flip-flop orchestra.
Lafayette Antecipations
December 22 -
December 24 | Drawing and Painting with Cécile Colom from 10:00 to 12:30, there are many other ateliers in several dates, I’m simply listing the one that falls in my daughter’s age bracket. (4 to 6 year olds)
Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris
I’ve included only special events, some institutions propose year-round activities for children: Musee Rodin, Palais de Tokyo, American Library in Paris, Cite de l’architecture, Jardin des Plantes.
Can’t wait to try the organic sourdough pizza
What a great overview of what's going on in Paris right now! I loved seeing Stéphanie D’heygere in here too!!!